Fresh pulls, knobs and quiet hinges complete a painted kitchen, and fitting them goes quickest with every front already down. Before cabinet painting, unused pull holes are packed and sanded so no trace survives under the colour.
Kitchens from the 1970s in Erin Mills often have small knobs or no hardware at all. Kitchens from the 1980s and 1990s usually have brass or wood knobs and exposed hinges. Most people want to change both when the colour changes.
New pulls rarely match the spacing of old ones. If the old holes are left open, they show through the fresh paint. We fill each old hole, let it cure, sand it flat and prime it before the finish coats.
New holes are drilled with a template so every pull sits at the same height and distance from the edge. This work happens before the final coats, so the new holes are clean and sealed.
Soft-close hinges stop doors from slamming. Older Erin Mills kitchens often have face-frame hinges that can be swapped for soft-close versions of the same style. Some doors need new hinge cups drilled.
With fronts off for cabinet painting anyway, a soft-close upgrade costs less now than on a later visit. We also adjust every hinge when the doors go back up so the gaps are even.
The hardware finish should work with the new cabinet colour. Brass pulls look warm on sage, navy and cream. Black bar pulls look sharp on white and greige. Brushed nickel and chrome suit grey and blue.
We ask you to choose hardware before the work starts so the holes can be drilled at the right spacing. You can buy the hardware yourself, or we can include it in the quote.
Fresh enamel is soft for the first few days. Screwing pulls on too early can crack or dent the finish around the screw. Pulls go on last, after rehanging and once the coating has firmed.
We tighten each pull carefully and check that every door and drawer opens and closes smoothly before we leave.
Pulls come in set sizes, measured from the centre of one screw hole to the centre of the other. Common sizes are 3 inches, 96 mm, 128 mm and 160 mm, and long bar pulls can be much longer. Knobs need only one hole.
Your new pull size gets confirmed ahead of cabinet painting. If the new pull uses one of the existing holes, we fill only the other. If it uses neither, both old holes are filled. That planning keeps the finished doors clean with no marks.
Drawer fronts often need a pull centred on the front, while doors need a pull near the opening edge. We mark each one with the template so the whole kitchen lines up.
Pulls and hinges get counted, spacing gets measured, and all of it lands on your free written price. Dial +1 (289) 206-9908, describe the pulls you want, or visit our home page. Colour advice lives under cabinet colour consultation.
The bathroom vanity, the laundry uppers and the hall shelving in a South Common town get the kitchen's exact coating system.
Kitchen cabinet painting puts fresh colour and a tough sprayed coat on the cabinets you already own, with counters, sink and boxes left in place. Doors come off, get cleaned, sanded and primed for their material, then return with two or three smooth coats.
See Kitchen Cabinets
Townhouse kitchens are compact, usually galley or L-shaped, and the cabinet painting work has to fit around shared walls, visitor parking and condo complex rules. The boxes stay in place, the doors leave for spraying, and the family keeps cooking.
See Townhouses
Oak cabinet painting begins with shellac primer, which locks brown tannin inside the wood so it never stains your new colour. After that, deep pores are either packed flat with filler or allowed to show as soft texture.
See Oak Cabinets
Cabinet refinishing keeps the wood grain in view by stripping or sanding the old clear coat, adjusting the stain and spraying a fresh protective finish. It is the right choice over paint when the wood itself is worth showing.
See Refinishing
Cabinet spray painting lays down thin, level coats of hard enamel that dry without brush marks or roller texture. In our cabinet painting work, doors get sprayed in a filtered booth and the boxes get sprayed at home behind plastic sheeting.
See Spray Painting
Glossy factory fronts accept new colour after hand scuffing and an adhesion primer built for plastic faces. Peeling thermofoil is different, so we strip or swap those fronts before cabinet painting starts.
See Thermofoil and Melamine
Cabinet refacing hangs brand-new fronts on the boxes you keep, and those boxes get coated or skinned to match. It suits kitchens where the boxes are solid but the doors are damaged, dated in shape or too worn for cabinet painting alone.
See Refacing and New Doors
Two-tone cabinet painting uses a darker colour on the island or lower cabinets and a lighter colour above. An island-only job brings in colour while leaving everything else alone.
See Two-Tone and Islands
A bathroom vanity gets the same degreasing, primer and sprayed enamel as a kitchen, with extra care for moisture and steam. No cabinet painting job in your home is smaller, and one or two days usually covers it.
See Bathroom Vanities
Condo kitchens are small, and the cabinet work schedule has to follow building rules for elevators, loading and working hours. The doors leave the unit for spraying, so odour stays low and the kitchen keeps working.
See Condo Kitchens
Pantry units, laundry uppers, mudroom lockers and fitted shelving receive kitchen-grade primer and sprayed enamel. Adding them to kitchen cabinet work lowers the cost per cabinet and makes the whole house match.
See Pantries and Built-Ins
Choosing a colour is easier with a real sprayed door in your kitchen than with a small paint chip. We spray a sample in the colour you are considering and leave it in your room so you can see it in your own light before the cabinet painting starts.
See Colour ConsultationSomeone stops by, tallies each front, checks the material and lists the work in detail. The trip and the price sheet are free.
Fill in what you can about the kitchen, and we will phone to settle on a day. We just need a way to reach you. Or skip the form and call +1 (289) 206-9908.
